Roaming with Red

It’s not hard to see why Bucharest is often labelled Little Paris or the Paris of the East. Filled with grandiose buildings and large, bustling streets, modern Bucharest was clearly built to impress. However, look a little deeper and you’ll see a city and country still trying to rebuild after decades of oppression and hardship. Next to the ornate buildings stand uniformed apartment blocks, many falling into disrepair. Bucharest is a city of two halves – between those who ordered the city built and those who actually made it – which makes for a fascinating city to discover. Despite the sometimes raggedy exterior, there is much beauty to be found in Bucharest and in Romania itself. Below are my must dos while you’re visiting this city.

Wander the Old Town and Experience the Bucharest Charm

The old town is one of the major attractions in Bucharest and it’s not hard to see why. The cobbled pathways tell of an era long past and provide this city centre with plenty of character to enjoy. While the streets are lined with all kinds of store fronts, some nicer than others, it does give this area a very lively feel, especially if you wander the alleyways of an evening. Walk through Macca-Vilacrosse Passage and enjoy the gold covered walkway that once housed an inn during the 1800s. Alternatively, venture slightly further out of the old town and enjoy the Umbrella walkway, providing a little bit of fun and frivolity while you explore.

Marvel at the Interior of the Many Churches and Cathedrals

As a country that is predominately Orthodox Christian, Bucharest is filled with churches and cathedrals to discover. It is clear that religion plays a massive role in the lives of the Romanian people, evidenced by the many churches dotted throughout the city and the pride that is taken in the upkeep of these places of worship. While you can simply walk into many of the churches within Bucharest, below are a few suggestions that simply cannot be missed:

• Patriarchal Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helena – Sitting on top of a hill a short distance from the Palace of Parliament, this Cathedral is a must see. While it has an unassuming exterior, the interior is a stunning mix of golden decoration and ornate iconography. The Cathedral is a functioning place of worship and is clearly well utilised by the people of Bucharest. One note, the Cathedral sits in a courtyard made up of multiple buildings. Don’t make my mistake and assume it’s the biggest building in the courtyard… the Cathedral is actually the smaller building in the centre of this piazza!
• Biserica Sfantul Antonie Curtea Veche – this Greek Orthodox Church is one of the most famous churches in Bucharest and sits right on the fringe of the Old City. Its orange and beige exterior makes for quite a beautiful sight when compared to the grey cobblestones of the streets surrounding the church. Unfortunately, I was unable to enter the church itself but is still worth visiting to marvel at the exterior.
• Stavropoleos Monastery Church – This Church, built in the early 1700s, sits right in the centre of the old city and is another beautiful example of the importance of religion to this city. Originally built for nuns in Bucharest, the small gardens are filled with old ruins and tumbling greenery, providing this monastery with a mystical yet peaceful aura.

Gawk in Awe at the Size of the Palace of Parliament

It’s rather hard to miss the Palace of Parliament when you’re exploring Bucharest. Built on the orders of Nicolae Ceaușescu, the previous President or Dictator of Communist Romania, the building is one of the largest buildings in Europe and tells of a regime that wanted to be noticed by the world. The building takes centre stage at the end of the Unirii Boulevard and is the official seat of the Romania Parliament (not that much of the building is actually used). Take a walk up the Unirii Boulevard and marvel at the sheer size of this building. As it towers above you with its vast carpark and front gardens, it is difficult to not be impressed while also slightly uncomfortable with the unnecessary grandeur of the building.

Discover one of the Most Beautiful Hideaways at the Cărturești Carusel Bookstore

This is, by far, one of the most beautiful bookstores I have ever walked into. Despite the unassuming front, the inside is an expansive, open space filled with shelves upon shelves of books and knick knacks. The bookstore centrepiece is the large stairway occupying the back centre wall, leaving the centre of the store completely open despite being multiple stories high. With chairs dotted throughout the store, take a spiral staircase up a level or two, choose a book and sit down to find some peace and tranquility away from the buzzing city centre. This space is so beautifully designed it really is a must visit. If you’re in desperate need for a coffee or a snack, there is also a café on the top level which allows you marvel at the bookstore from above while enjoying an espresso or two.

Learn More about Romania at the National Museum of Romanian History

I knew very little about the history of Romania before I arrived here and so it was high on my list to spend at least some of my time discovering more about this country. The National Museum of Romanian History is a great place to start if you want to explore the history of Romania before modern times. The well laid out and very digestible museum is located just outside the old town and walks you through Romania in prehistoric times until now. Some main highlights include the crown jewels, some of which are genuinely breathtaking, and the life-size reconstruction of part of Trajan’s Column, a nod to the country’s Roman past and very impressive despite being a reconstruction.

Spend Some Time With the European Masters at the National Museum of Art

This was not actually something I expected to do but, after finding an extra hour to kill, I decided to explore the National Museum of Art and it was well worth it. The Museum is made up of two sides – one building is dedicated to Romanian masters while the other is dedicated to European masters. Unfortunately, as I only had an hour, I chose to visit the European Masters. The museum has a wide variety of paintings on offer and it was a great way to while away an hour or two. One tip, the Museum provides a recommended route so make sure you follow it and make it all the way to the end. The exhibition finishes with a stunning spiral staircase which is a piece of art in and of itself!

Enjoy the Outdoors at one of the Many Parks Within the City

Bucharest is filled with wide open green spaces to enjoy and I would highly recommend you find some time to explore a few of them while you are in the city. It is a great way to escape the hustle and bustle of the busy city streets and instead spend some time in nature. Below are a few suggestions:

• Carol I Park – named after King Carol I, who ruled after Romania was declared an independent and sovereign state in the late 1800s, this expansive garden is well worth a visit. Surrounded by different walking paths, the main focus of the park is the monument to the Notion’s Heroes which towers over the park.
• Grădina Cișmigiu – this park, which sits closer to the old town, is a lovely place to enjoy a quick walk on a Summer’s day. The main attraction is the big lake in the centre of the park which was unfortunately emptied for cleaning while I was there but I can imagine how busy this space becomes when the weather is warmer.
• King Michael I Park – this park is potentially one of the biggest in Bucharest and is extremely well known. I unfortunately didn’t have the time to visit however everyone I talked to suggested going here so would recommend it goes onto the itinerary if possible! The park also plays home to the National Village Museum which pays homage to the traditional Romanian village lifestyle.

Immerse Yourself in the Bustling Food and Wine Culture

Bucharest is known as the little Paris for a reason and the food and wine scene is one of these reasons. There are a plethora of places to enjoy but below are some of my main recommendations:

• Hanu’Lui Manu – while slightly touristy, this is a great place to go for your first meal in Bucharest. They serve traditional Romanian food in a lively atmosphere without too hefty a price!
• La Tati/ Scovergăria Micăi/ Patisserie Lanke – these are three different, local bakeries throughout Bucharest and I would highly recommend you visit all three if you can. La Tati and Patisserie Lanke are both little ‘hole in the wall’ shopfronts while Scovergăria Micăi has actual indoor seating, however all sell some of the most delicious Romanian pastries. If you can’t make it to any of these, there are hundreds of similar shops throughout the city so you won’t be lacking for choice.
• Lacrimi și Sfinți – Another restaurant located in the old city, this is another great place if you’re looking to enjoy a traditional Romanian meal.
• Bob George Coffee Bar – this cool but minimalist coffee shop in the centre of the Old Town sells excellent coffee alongside a few sweet treats. Plus, they have some very funky figurines out the front to give the place some character!
• Ironic Taproom – Ironic Taproom is a groovy beer hall selling a variety of independent beers. The décor is very minimalist but funky, the beers are delicious and they do have a food truck on site if you get a little peckish.
• Industry Wine Bar – this is a little wine bar located right next to Lacrimi și Sfinți. They sell a whole range of interesting wines, including some delicious Romanian choices, if you’re looking to explore something local.
• Corks – this was probably my favourite bar of the whole trip! This local wine bar was lively with a great host and an incredible selection of affordable and delicious Romanian wines. There was even a live accordian performance to give the bar an awesome atmosphere!

Foods to try:

Romanian cuisine is delicious although potentially not the best cuisine for non-meat eaters! It is a cuisine filled with hearty and satisfying dishes that are packed with flavour. Below are a few of my favourites Romanian dishes that I suggest you try:

• Mici – the best way to explain these are a cross between a sausage (without the case) and a skewer. It is often made of sausage meat on a skewer cooked over an open flame and, if made right, are simply melt in the mouth delicious.
• Sarmale – these are stuffed cabbaged or vine rolls, usually with a meat and rice filling, cooked in a delicious, rich tomato sauce. Very much a comfort food on a cold day! They are often served with a side of polenta which is very common in many Romanian dishes.
• Plăcintă – this is a type of Romanian pie and is can be either sweet or savoury with fillings such as cottage cheese or apple.
• Anything from a bakery – this might sound ridiculous but honestly every bakery I tried had incredible food! From meat wrapped in pastry to savoury pretzels, find a local bakery that has a line of people out the front and stock up!

Venture Beyond the City Walls and Experience the Beauty of Romania

While Bucharest is an incredible city to explore, there is much to see beyond the city. Romania is a varied country which was only unified in 1862 and therefore exploring outside of Bucharest is the perfect way to uncover the true flavour of this country.

The easiest day trip to do is a trip to Transylvania and there are plenty of small tour providers who facilitate such tours as public transport is minimal at best. I booked a small group tour via Viator with Excellence Tours and it was well worth it! Despite being an early start, the tour took us to two major castles – Peles Castle and Bran Castle – and the city of Brasov providing a good taster of what Transylvania has to offer. As Transylvania was not originally part of Romania, it has a fascinating history and architecture with a decidedly more German/ Austrian feel than the capital. Peles Castle was the Summer residence of King Carol I while Bran Castle is often labelled as ‘Dracula’s Castle’ despite Stoker never having actually visited this castle. It was really interesting to see the countryside as we travelled to and from the castles and well worth exploring outside of Bucharest.