Roaming with Red

Bucharest is a city filled with a mixture of grandeur and grit. Buildings with ornate facades sit beside buildings in disarray which makes for a very interesting city to discover. If you’re looking to properly explore Bucharest without having to rush, I would suggest spending at least 3 days here – 2 full days of exploring the city and one day to visit Transylvania. However, if, like me, you have slightly less time on your hands, below is my suggested itinerary for a weekend in Bucharest.

When to Visit

I visited Bucharest in mid-March and the start of Spring. Having come out of what felt like a particularly cold London Winter, this felt like the perfect time to visit Bucharest. While the morning’s were still fresh, the temperature during the day was cool but very bearable and I was lucky enough to get a full weekend of sun. Additionally, being the shoulder season flights and accomodation were extremely cheap (100 pounds all up!) which is nearly impossible to achieve these days.

Currency and Transport

From a currency perspective, Romania uses the Romanian Leu and is a very cheap holiday if you’re converting from British Pounds. While you can easily get cash from the ATMs in the city, be wary of the exchange rates and fees, my experience was that there was no need for cash at all. Everywhere took card payments and the only time I paid in cash was during the tour to Transylvania.

From a transport perspective, Bucharest is very walkable and there is no real need to take public transport unless you are trying to fit a lot into a small amount of time. There is an extensive bus and underground network if you’re looking to save some time via public transport. To get to the city centre from the major airport of Henri Coandă International Airport, you can either take a taxi or get the 783 Express Bus – the bus was a very easy and cheap alternative to a taxi and drops you right in the centre of the city!

I’ve also written a more detailed blog on Bucharest itself here if you’re looking for a bit more detail on where to eat and what to see!

Day 1

Morning – Churches, Monuments and the Old City

Start your first day in Bucharest early and pop past one of the local bakeries on your way to pick up breakfast. Whether it’s a cheese filled pastry or a delicious pretzel, it’s the perfect way to start exploring this city.

From here, take a walk in the crisp morning air to the Patriarchal Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helena. The Cathedral sits atop a small hill and it’s beautiful to experience this monument before the rush of the tourist crowds so would recommend it as your first stop. Enjoy the peaceful atmosphere surrounding the Cathedral and respectfully marvel at the golden decorations and detailed iconography within this religious space (this is a functioning place of worship so there will most likely be a mass happening).

From here, the Palace of Parliament is just around the corner. Take a quick stroll past this building and stand in awe at its sheer size. From here, continue onwards to the Old City and experience a completely different side to Bucharest. Here, the concrete pavement is replaced by cobblestones and the wide open roads are replaced by smaller, charming alleyways. Spend an hour walking through the cultural centre of Bucharest, making sure you visit at least some of the below attractions:

• Biserica Sfântul Anton – this orange and beige church is a beautiful example of the importance of the Orthodox religion to the Romanian people.
• Cărturești Carusel – the most beautiful bookshop in Bucharest and a definite must see.
• Stavropoleos Monastery Church – the small gardens of this monastery church provide a beautiful oasis away from the noise of the surrounding streets

Finish your morning at the National Museum of Romanian History. Spend an hour or two in this museum and brush up on your knowledge of Romanian history, enjoying the interesting collection of artefacts and exhibitions.

Lunch

If you only have one day to spend in Bucharest, I would highly recommend you have lunch on the go rather than sitting down for a meal. Local bakeries are dotted throughout the city and sell a wide variety of delicious and traditional pastries. Try Scovergăria Micăi as a very popular bakery which sits right on the edge of the Old City and is very close to the National History Museum.

Afternoon – Plazas, Art and Gardens

To start your afternoon of exploration, walk your way to University Square. Not only is the monument worth seeing, if just for a brief moment, but it is also near one of the biggest roundabouts in Bucharest and it can be quite enjoyable to watch the cars weave around each other.

Here, you have two options. You can either continue onwards to the Arcul de Triumf and King Michael I Park or you can continue discovering the area around University Square. If you decide for the first option, I would suggest taking public transport to save some time as it’s a decent walk to the park. If, like me, you instead to decide to explore the current area, find your way to Calea Victoriei.

This large street is one of the main thoroughfares in Bucharest and you will find many of the main museums on this road. Wander past Umbrella Street and continue up this wide, expansive street until you find yourself at the Romanian Athenium and the National Museum of Art. Choose between Romanian or European masters and spend a few hours surrounded by artistic masterpieces. The collection here is actually quite impressive and I would highly recommend you give yourself enough time to enjoy what this art gallery has on offer.

From here, finish your day surrounded by parkland and greenery at Grădina Cișmigiu before finding a bar to enjoy a well earned rest. If you’re looking for a few drink recommendations, I would highly recommend Ironic Taproom or Corks Wine Bar. Both have great atmospheres, with Ironic Taproom providing a range of craft beers while Corks is a great opportunity to try some Romanian red wines.

Dinner

After a big day of walking, treat yourself to a nice dinner out to experience the Romanian cuisine. Below are a few suggested restaurants if you’re looking to try a few traditional Romanian dishes:

• Caru’ Cu Bere – a lively restaurants selling Romanian food in a historically beautiful setting.
• Hanu’ Lui Manuc – housed in Romania’s oldest operating hotel, this restaurant serves delicious Romanian food in a lovely and lively setting.
• Lacrimi și Sfinți – classic Romanian fare served in the heart of the Old City.

Day 2 – Day Trip to Transylvania

Despite there being much more to see and do in Bucharest itself, if you only have two days here I would highly recommend you book a tour to Transylvania and its castles. While a long day when you factor in the travel time to and from Transylvania, the Romanian countryside is stunning and this tour was probably my highlight of the weekend.

While each tour will be slightly different we started our day nice and early to beat the morning traffic. The drive took us through many small villages in the Transylvanian countryside and showed us a completely different side to Romania. I visited in early March and, while the ski season had mainly finished, there was still a bit of snow on the mountain tops which provided a sense of magic to this early morning bus trip.

Morning – Peles Castle

The first stop was Peles Castle. This was the Summer residence of King Carol I, the first Romanian King after the country was unified in 1881. With the snow covered mountains behind the castle, it truly felt like we had been transported to another realm. The inside of the castle itself was stunning, with multiple themed rooms all lavishly decorated. Thanks to the fact it was constructed in the late 1800s, the Castle is also relatively modern, fully equipped with electricity and still utilising the original heating and cooling system. However, the outside gardens were the thing that really struck me at this castle. While small, the few statues and hedges which sat in front of the castle, with the combination of the snow peaked mountain tops in the distance, added to the mystical feel of this place.

Lunch – Brasov

The next stop on the tour was the city of Brasov. The city centre of this iconic, medieval city feels very different to Bucharest and has a clear Austrian and German feel to it, thanks to its history as an important trading route and being part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The cobblestoned main piazza is dominated by the large council building and bell tower with the Black Church ominously lurking in the background. Take a walk through the city and enjoy the bustling main street and charming back streets. Make sure you also take some time to enjoy the exterior of the Black Church. If you’re pressed for time, I wouldn’t recommend actually going inside the Church as it is less impressive, but the exterior is beautiful and it’s well worth taking a few moments to enjoy its grandeur. The church gets its name from a 1600s fire and was a key building in the Reformation to Protestantism in this area.

Afternoon – Bran Castle

The final stop for the day was Bran Castle, more commonly known as Count Dracula’s Castle. While Stoker never actually visited this castle, it’s not hard to see why it has been so closely linked to the tale. Sitting atop a steep hill and towering over the township below, the castle is an ominous site and definitely stirs the imagination. Located on the Transylvanian side of the historical border with Wallachia, this castle was often an important barrier between Transylvania and Wallachia and housed many historical orders including the Teutonic Knights. The small and narrow interior of the Castle is dedicated to Queen Marie, the last Queen of Romania who turned the castle into a Summer residence, showing many pieces of furniture and clothing which belonged to the family and providing a fascinating glimpse into a very important part of Romania’s history. Make sure you take some time to enjoy the breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside before exploring the castle grounds and the small market at the foot of the building selling all sorts of souvenirs and food.