Roaming with Red

Amsterdam – a city well known for its liberal values and life centred around the canals. Nestled around the three main canals, Amsterdam provides a wonderland for both museum lovers and food enthusiasts alike. Tall, skinny buildings lean on angles that shouldn’t be possible, creating an intoxicating combination of little streets and wonky skylines. The canals are as much a part of the city as the buildings are and, as you walk over bridge after bridge, are somehow hard to get sick of. A thriving coffee culture and food scene ensures that you never go hungry and gives the city a more relaxed feel.

We spent a long weekend in Amsterdam and I would be so ready to go back to keep exploring this city. Below are some recommendations of things to see (food and wine will be a different post because there is just too much to talk about!) if you need some inspo on how to experience the Dutch capital.

Marvel at the food and clothing at one of Amsterdam’s many markets

The first piece of sightseeing we did was at the Foodhallen, a food market on the outskirts of the centre city, and it did not disappoint. Housed in an old tram depot, the first thing that hits you are the aromas. Well before you even reach the entry to the food hall, you can smell the fresh food that is being made on site. Go on a weekend, and you’ll find the crowd just as overwhelming as the food choices, but in a very good way. The market hall is a bustling space full of people eating, drinking and enjoying each other’s company. If you get in on an early morning flight, it’s a pretty great place to start.

The second market is the Albert Cuyp Market. Located on the other-side of the city, Albert Cuyp takes up the whole road with stall upon stall of food sellers, clothing sellers and knick knack sellers. If you can think of it, there’s probably a stall selling it here! While I maybe wasn’t as enthralled with this market as I was with the Foodhallen, it’s still a great place to visit to get a sense of life in Amsterdam. While there are plenty of tourists, there are just as many locals coming to get their regular weekly shop too.

Be in awe of artistic talents or educated on the city’s history at the many museums and galleries

Amsterdam is a city teaming with museums and art galleries, so much so that you can’t possibly do them all in one weekend. Below are a few of the ones I would recommend but it is, by no means, an exhaustive list.

Rijksmuseum – this is the main art gallery in Amsterdam and it is well worth carving out a morning to absorb the art on show here. The art gallery does an excellent job of championing Dutch masters in all their dark, brooding or still life glory. The Night Watch by Rembrandt and The Battle of Waterloo by Jan Willem Pieneman are two of the main attractions in the gallery and they are both a site to behold. However, make sure you leave enough time to digest the other sections of the gallery as well (I spent nearly three hours here and was still rushing by the end of it!). I would highly recommend going early in the morning – I was there first thing on a Sunday morning and shared the gallery with only a handful of other people for a few hours before the crowds started trickling in.

Museum Van Loon – this museum is housed in one of the old residences of a wealthy merchant family – Van Loon was a co-founder of the Dutch East India Company – and the house has maintained much of its historical bearings. You don’t need much time here to really get a feel for the museum and the family that lived here. For me, however, the garden was the real winner. You would never know from the front of the house, but the back of the building is home to a stunning private garden which the Van Loon family would have enjoyed. It was common for wealthy Amsterdam families to have private gardens and I could definitely imagine myself sitting here, drinking a wine or two.

The Jewish Museum and Spanish Synagogue – The Jewish Museum provides an informative look into the Jewish faith and its place within Dutch society, specifically within Amsterdam. I unfortunately didn’t have time to visit the Anne Frank museum so visited here instead, and while perhaps not a direct substitute, it is a sobering experience none-the-less to learn about the Jewish community across the centuries. Make sure you pick up the free audio guide for extra information on all the displays. Your ticket also gets you entry into the Spanish Synagogue across the road. This Synagogue is still in its original form and hasn’t been altered in centuries, not even to include modern luxuries like electricity (they still use candles for light during the night time!). The Synagogue is an impressive monument to the Jewish faith and includes lots of important artefacts that help tell the story of the Jewish community in Amsterdam.

Our Lord in the Attic Museum – This was a fascinating visit and potentially my second favourite museum after the Rijksmuseum. During the Protestant reformation, where Catholics lost the right to worship in the traditional way, many churches were built in the top floors of Dutch houses. Authorities of the time treated worship with an ‘out of sight, out of mind’ mentality so these home churches allowed Catholics to practice their faith despite it being outlawed. The museum shows one such example. Not only does the museum champion the church itself, it also provides a fascinating look into what a house would have looked like during the mid-1600s. Many of the elements in the museum are in their original state or are recreations of original pieces, and it is a fantastic way to get a feel for what living in Amsterdam may once have been like. Do be ready to climb a lot of of stairs however, as the museum is filled with tiny rooms and steep staircases!

Enjoy the fresh air and walk the city

Amsterdam is a beautiful city to walk through. The canals are something out of a fairytale and somehow the view never seems to get old. Between the canals and the little streets to explore, there is plenty to see by just walking the city. Alternatively, you can live like a local and rent out a bike and cycle everywhere instead. A word of warning, the cyclists are pretty scary in Amsterdam so be ready to have an adventure!

If you’re a bit sick of the city, however, Amsterdam is also filled with plenty of parks to enjoy. One of the biggest and most popular is called Vondel Park. This massive green expanse is a great way to enjoy some fresh air away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Visit one of the many churches

Like many European cities, there is no shortage of churches to visit in Amsterdam. We only visited one but, if it’s the only church you do visit, this one is well worth it. The Oude Kerk is Amsterdam’s oldest building. Originally a wooden structure created in the early 1200’s, the Church was eventually replaced by a stone structure in the early 1300s. the first thing you notice as you enter the church is the large, empty expanse. Originally a catholic church, it became a Calvinist church during the reformation, being looted multiple times during this turbulent period. The building itself is stunning. The towering ceilings provide a feeling of incredible expanse and the stone floors play home to a consistent string of burial plaques. Today, the Oude Kerk is a centre of modern art and culture and holds many exhibitions for modern and up and coming artists. If you visit, go find the wooden pews at the back of the church and you might see some very interesting caricatures of Dutch life (like someone pooing out gold…).

Tick the Red Light District off the List

I’ll be honest, I was really hesitant to add this to the list. But, it is a main attraction in the city and something that is interesting to see once. It’s not hard to find the main Red Light District – just follow the crowds. The windows of the pleasure houses glow with a fluorescent red light, illuminating the whole street. This was the only place in Amsterdam filled with crowds, a stark contrast to the more relaxed and less crowded Amsterdam we had previously experienced. Honestly, while I’m glad I saw it, it’s not something I would go back to. The whole experience was a little bit uncomfortable.

Where to Stay

Like any city, there are so many places you can stay in. We stayed at the Hotel Estherea and it was lovely place to base ourselves during our weekend. The hotel itself is slightly quirky, to say the least, but it gives the hotel a unique character in a really charming way. It’s actually a family owned business, started just after the Second World War. The hotel provides a decent breakfast spread with the usual cold cuts, eggs and toast. The best part of this hotel, however, is the location. Located in the middle of the city, it provides the perfect base to explore every part of the city!

Overall, I absolutely loved Amsterdam and would highly recommend you find time to visit! It’s filled with culture, food and incredible architecture.

Keep your eyes out for the next post which will give some suggestions on where to go to eat and drink!